Tuesday, July 25, 2006

The Evacuation of a Nation

One of my wishes came true on the day of my planned evacuation: there was no boat for me. Apparently, the Israelis feel the occasional need to show who is in charge, and refused to let the ship chartered by the Swedes dock. As chances of getting on another boat were slim, and there were buses on their way from southern Lebanon with people in much greater need of evacuation than me, I returned to AUB campus. After all, there was really no immediate need for me to take up space at the provisional evacuation center set up by the Swedes at Holiday Inn Dunes, in the Verdun district of Beirut. I returned to the evacuation center early Saturday morning, July 22, only to find approximately 350 people waiting to be evacuated.

You have to hand it to the Swedes; they evacuate their citizens in style. Several air-conditioned stories of stores, restaurants and cafés were available to us while awaiting our evacuation. I have spent many happy hours in this very mall; back in the day when I lived in Beirut more permanently, me and my girlfriend were frequent guests at the Dunes movie theatre. It was a very bizarre experience to be awaiting evacuation in that very familiar surrounding.

How some of the people there had the nerve to complain about the way Swedish authorities treated them, I will never understand. One young man whined about having to wait for hour after hour in the posh surroundings of the Dunes mall; he felt he deserved financial retribution for his plight. I knew from an earlier conversation that he was a Sunni from an area of Beirut that had not been directly affected by the bombardment and from what I could tell, him and his family were not suffering from any illnesses or physical problems. I had to turn away just to avoid getting into a fight with this arrogant young man; there we were, enjoying every comfort imaginable under the circumstances, while people with no way out were suffering the harshest conditions not far from us, and he has the audacity to complain. I had nothing to say to him and made sure to stay as far away from him as possible for the rest of the journey.

After waiting for seven or eight hours in the Dunes mall we received word that there would be room for us on a ship chartered by the Australians (thank you, Australia!). Soon we were put on buses and driven through the unusually empty streets of Beirut to the port. I tried to take in as much of the scenery as possible since I have no way of knowing when I will be there again. I have departed from Beirut many times, but it has never felt this bitter. Once onboard the ship, I stood up on deck, looking out over Beirut in the afternoon haze, trying to comprehend what was happening. Helicopters, presumably American, were flying back and forth between Beirut and Cyprus, while warships patrolled the waters outside the Beirut port. When we departed I stood for a long time on deck, identifying my beloved AUB campus and the balcony of the room where I had spent the past ten days or so. I stayed on deck until Beirut disappeared below the horizon, and went inside in the hope to find a comfortable spot to spend the long journey to Cyprus.

We were lucky to have a fairly comfortable ship; a Greek cruise ship by the name of Kriti II. It was certainly crowded, but not to an unbearable point; after a couple of hours I even got to lie down on a couch for a while. The trip to Cyprus took us approximately seven hours. Although the process of getting all the people off the ship was somewhat chaotic, I realized I was, again, one of the lucky ones: two days earlier 1500 Swedes were evacuated, now there were only 350 of us. I think it is safe to say the process of checking our passports and registering us was a lot quicker this time. Once the registration process was over, we were separated into smaller groups and put on buses to hotels on various locations on Cyprus; we were to rest before trying to make the final stretch to Sweden.

Since Cyprus is now experiencing the height of its tourist season, the Swedish rescue teams have to go with whatever hotel rooms are available. Fortunately, in my case that meant getting to take a shower and sleep for three and a half hours at a four-star beach hotel. It certainly proved necessary, because after another two-hour bus ride to Larnaca airport on Sunday morning, we had to spend a good six or seven hours waiting in the summer heat, while scores of British tourist were hoarded to an increasing number of delayed flights.

Since I was a young healthy male traveling alone, I figured it my duty to help the Swedish evacuation personnel as best I could with their very difficult mission to get us out of there. I couldn’t do much, but I could help with the counting of heads and keeping the group of Swedish evacuees separate from the masses of tourists in the chaotic airport. In order to mark the end of the line of Lebanon-evacuees, I unpacked the Lebanese flag, which had been hanging from my balcony for the past week, and tied it to my suitcase. It was quite effective; instead of thinking we were fellow tourists and getting in line behind us, most vacationing Brits now gave us a strange look and passed us by, relieving us of the burden of constantly having to explain we were not in their line.

When a plane had finally arrived to take us out of there, and a counter was opened for us, we were led into the departure hall. Being last in line, I was advised by Swedish evacuation personnel to put the Lebanese flag away, since there were supposedly Israeli soldiers in the departure hall, watching over Israeli tourists en route back home. Two days earlier, they told me, the line of Swedish evacuees from Lebanon had accidentally ended up next to the line to the counter for a Tel Aviv flight. As a result, there had been some “friction.” They did not specify in what way. Not wanting to create trouble for the already strained Swedish evacuation personnel, I grudgingly put the flag away.

I have nothing but regards for the people from the various Swedish agencies trying to get people out of a war zone; they work day and night so that those in need can get home safely. Clearly, an evacuation from an ongoing armed conflict is not going to be a comfortable vacation trip. I will never understand those among the evacuees who complain loudly about the comfort of their trip back to Sweden. I do, however, believe they are a minority; the vast majority is as grateful as I am to the people working so hard to help us.

From what the Swedish personnel on the ground told me, the cooperation between the nations evacuating their citizens from Lebanon worked very well, with one big exception: the Americans. Since I normally live in the U.S. and appreciate and enjoy life there immensely, it saddened me to hear that the Americans on Cyprus showed no regard for the trouble they created for the evacuation operations of other nations. Apparently, the Americans did not even accept the airport authority; they simply landed whenever they saw fit to land, without awaiting clearance. Needless to say, this behavior is not helpful when the greatest evacuation since World War II is underway. Of course, it is very effective if you are a U.S. citizen, and since someone very close to me was supposed to be evacuated by the Americans on the same day, I admit I felt a certain comfort in the knowledge that at least she would be taken care of. With the greater picture in mind, however, it would have been nice to see the image of American arrogance proven wrong for once.

Be that as it may, at the time I boarded the plane that would take me to Malmo, Sweden, I had no idea whether or not my friend had been able to evacuate, and seeing the enormous military cargo planes from the U.S., I was worried she would have to spend a long flight over the Atlantic in one of those. In fact, I still don’t know exactly how she will be transported; when she called me yesterday she was on an American base on Cyprus, awaiting a flight to the U.S. Unlike her, I could look forward to a brief four hour flight from Cyprus before landing in southern Sweden.

When arriving in Sweden we were greeted by the soft-spoken women (and men) of a crisis team, trying to make us as comfortable as possible after our long and trying journey. There are times in your life you are proud of your country, and the reception we got in Sweden was one of those times. Not that I’m in need of trauma specialists, but there were many in our group from worse hit areas than mine, and many with memories from the last war. I’m sure the experience for those who have already fled one war was much more traumatic than it was for me. After a sandwich and coffee at the Malmo airport, I spent another eight hours on a bus to Stockholm before I reached my final destination. The entire journey Beirut-Stockholm had taken me almost exactly two days.

I’m still conflicted about having left. Life on an island in the Stockholm archipelago is as far as you get from life in Beirut under siege. It is no doubt nice to know that the rumbling in the distance is only thunder, but I feel disconnected from what is happening in a way I wasn’t when I was holed up in Beirut. I can still keep myself updated on what is happening through the Internet and TV, but I’m not there to see it with my own eyes. I’m no longer able to talk to people in the street; I am disconnected from the mood of Beirut and thereby disconnected from the plight of the Lebanese. But I will not forget what I have seen and felt during eleven days of living under Israeli siege; I will not forget what Lebanon is suffering at this very moment. As I bid you all farewell, I hope that this blog has in some way contributed to the understanding of the devastating situation in Lebanon today. Never forget the plight of Lebanon.

70 Comments:

Blogger Yoav said...

I thought you'd like to know that I translated two of your posts, the 13th and the 14th of July, and if usually my Blog gets 1000 readers a week, your single post got over 1400 readings in two days, over 1300 today.
People started talking, started thinking, the war is causing a damage to the popularity of both the prime minister and the minister of defense, mostly because the do not give humanitarian and financial back up to the Israeli citizens. I have a feeling this thing is going to be over soon.

9:53 AM  
Blogger dunno said...

Good to hear you got 'home' safely. Thanks for sharing it all. It made a lot of difference to me.

2:25 PM  
Blogger wys said...

thanks

2:44 PM  
Blogger Robert Zbedi said...

Hardig - I'm a young Lebanese male born and raised in America, and, though I am sorry to say I have never seen my home country, I have always felt a strong affinity and connection to the land of my ancestors - to the inheritance I hope to one day claim as my own. Of course, the current war has affected me deeply - especially, somehow, since I cannot be there in solidarity with my brothers, have NEVER seen the land or people being bombed even now - I felt removed in an almost sacrilegious way. I just wanted to thank you for the honest, soul-searching, touching, and astute documentation of your personal experiences during this war. I can honestly say that no blog has ever struck me as quite so important or so hard-hitting, has affected my so much in its very straightforward and simple relation of events and emotions. Thank your for sharing your experiences, thank you for bringing me a little bit closer to an ill and suffering part of me I cannot yet know, and thank you for devoting your time to give to the world a priceless artifact and documented account of this war. My thoughts and prayers are with you, wherever you go and whatever happens. May we yet live to see a Beirut thriving again - may you walk down its streets once more. Peace.

7:54 PM  
Blogger Kam Ling said...

Thank you for writting up this blog. I enjoy reading it. This enables me to understand more about what is going on in Beirut, apart from the TV, internet and newspapers.

Really glad that you got home safely. Yes, it is gloomy that the once beautiful Beirut was now being bombed, heavily attacked and left only rubble. Really hope that there can be peace in Middle East. Or, was the history so complicated that situation is intractable, if peace is not impossible? Or, just as Ben-Gurion once said, there was no solution?

Anyhow, hope that the sufferings of Lebanese and (Israelis?) can be ended soon. Wish your PhD studies goes well and enjoy your life.

9:27 AM  
Blogger PeaceMan said...

"Blessed are the Peacemakers, for they shall be called Sons (and Daughters) of God."

"Blessed are the Merciful, for they shall obtain mercy."

"Blessed are You when men revile you and persecute you and utter all kinds of evil against you falsely on my account."

"Blessed are those who Mourn, for they shall be comforted."

"LOVE ONE ANOTHER!"

-- Jesus' words 2,000 years ago continue to have meaning today.

12:45 PM  
Blogger Hardig said...

Yoav,

I'm very happy you think my words make a difference; please feel free to translate more posts.

1:37 PM  
Blogger PeaceMan said...

From
http://beirutnotes.blogspot.com/2006/07/i-am-sorry.html

I Am Sorry
The only way I can face all the death and destruction around me right now is to be rude. And I am sorry.

"Kos Om Hezbollah Ala Om Israeel Ala Akht Souriya Ala Akht Iran."

This little and fat bearded geek Nasrallah has decided to wage an open war on Israel. This little dogmatic #### is a slave to the coward Bashar Assad who is a slave to the little bearded and thin Ahmadinejad who is a slave to the biggest #### of them all Khamanei.

These criminals have decided to fight Israel to the last Lebanese. These criminals have decided to wipe out the future of our children.

The Israelis are killing our children and mothers and Nasrallah wants to fight on. Who is he to decide to fight on? Who gave him the right to fight on?
We, the Lebanese people, have elected a parliament and a government and they decide our future not some ignorant cleric.

We all know how powerful and criminal Israel can be and we all saw what it did in Gaza. So what is this bearded monkey doing?

He is an agent to the Iranians and the Syrians, the most cowardly regimes in the world. Look how quick Iran and Syria were in denying news that they were somehow involved in the current situation.

Nasrallah and his brainwashed goons are an expensive mercenary force ($500 million dollars per year) to the lowest forms of regimes. Iran and Syria are mice that dare not face Israel directly.

They want us to fight for them. They want us to destroy our little piece of heaven for them. They want us to sacrifice our children and virgins at the altar of Islam and Arabism while they live the good life.

God help my people and my country and punish all those that are harming it.

9:10 AM  
Blogger AM said...

Thank you for the blogging from Beirut :) and thank you for all your words and feelings :)
Much appreciated.

12:11 PM  
Blogger athena said...

I found your blog sited in a Greek newspaper today. Thank you - I am Greek, which means in a way European, but also 'Easterner'. I have been brought up listening to the news of the 'war' in the Middle East - it has even become a joke among friends discussing: 'Why are you so serious; Are you going to solve the 'middle-Easty-problem?' I work with children so I was asked some days ago: 'what are we going to tell the children that watch TV about the war?' 'tell them you are sorry, deeply, deeply sorry'. I do not declare a pacifist. Actually, I do not declare anything at all. I am just ashamed of doing nothing - just watch. Some days ago, a famous doctor said that the globalization effect should manifest itself in medicine. How ironic of humanity: first create the crisis then provide a bandage. Are people grateful? Is this 'humanitarian'? Still, killing for power is our beloved occupation. First we starve each other and then we feast on each other. I got an empty feeling when you wrote: 'foreigners are out, now what?' I am a neighbor - and I get chills - what does it mean 'this thing is going to be over soon?'Soon' for what? And for whom?

12:38 PM  
Blogger Pierre said...

Thank you for your blog. I assume you know that the best English langiage Commentary about this whole outrageous invasion comes from an American site democracynow.org.
As an Australian i am ashamed of my countries support for the Israeli invasion and our media for its gutlessness, I hope the Swedish press is doing better

10:02 PM  
Blogger NGK said...

Love, Hope and kisses by NGK.

5:01 AM  
Blogger FreeCyprus said...

God this must end. In the name of God, peace, not war. In the name of God, love, not hate.

-- FreeCyprus
http://hellenic-reporter.blogspot.com/

9:15 AM  
Blogger from athens said...

I saw your adress in a newspaper in athens and i just want to say that none of us can understand what is really happening.Your story gave us the true side of events.Glad that you returnd home safely.

11:04 AM  
Blogger PeaceMan said...

http://www.jihadwatch.org/

What does the Arabic word jihad mean?

One answer came last week, when Saddam Hussein had his Islamic leaders appeal to Muslims worldwide to join his jihad to defeat the "wicked Americans" should they attack Iraq; then he himself threatened the United States with jihad.

As this suggests, jihad is "holy war." Or, more precisely: It means the legal, compulsory, communal effort to expand the territories ruled by Muslims at the expense of territories ruled by non-Muslims.

The purpose of jihad, in other words, is not directly to spread the Islamic faith but to extend sovereign Muslim power (faith, of course, often follows the flag). Jihad is thus unabashedly offensive in nature, with the eventual goal of achieving Muslim dominion over the entire globe.

Jihad did have two variant meanings through the centuries, one more radical, one less so. The first holds that Muslims who interpret their faith differently are infidels and therefore legitimate targets of jihad. (This is why Algerians, Egyptians and Afghans have found themselves, like Americans and Israelis, so often the victims of jihadist aggression.) The second meaning, associated with mystics, rejects the legal definition of jihad as armed conflict and tells Muslims to withdraw from the worldly concerns to achieve spiritual depth.

Jihad in the sense of territorial expansion has always been a central aspect of Muslim life. That's how Muslims came to rule much of the Arabian Peninsula by the time of the Prophet Muhammad's death in 632. It's how, a century later, Muslims had conquered a region from Afghanistan to Spain. Subsequently, jihad spurred and justified Muslim conquests of such territories as India, Sudan, Anatolia, and the Balkans.

Today, jihad is the world's foremost source of terrorism, inspiring a worldwide campaign of violence by self-proclaimed jihadist groups:

The International Islamic Front for the Jihad Against Jews and Crusaders: Osama bin Laden's organization;
Laskar Jihad: responsible for the murder of more than 10,000 Christians in Indonesia;
Harakat ul-Jihad-i-Islami: a leading cause of violence in Kashmir;
Palestinian Islamic Jihad: the most vicious anti-Israel terrorist group of them all;
Egyptian Islamic Jihad: killed Anwar El-Sadat in 1981, many others since, and
Yemeni Islamic Jihad: killed three American missionaries on Monday.
But jihad's most ghastly present reality is in Sudan, where until recently the ruling party bore the slogan "Jihad, Victory and Martyrdom." For two decades, under government auspices, jihadists there have physically attacked non-Muslims, looted their belongings and killed their males.

Jihadists then enslaved tens of thousands of females and children, forced them to convert to Islam, sent them on forced marches, beat them and set them to hard labor. The women and older girls also suffered ritual gang-rape, genital mutilation and a life of sexual servitude.

Sudan's state-sponsored jihad has caused about 2 million deaths and the displacement of another 4 million - making it the greatest humanitarian catastrophe of our era.

6:01 AM  
Blogger FreeCyprus said...

Breaking news:

Hizbollah fighter tells Israel he trained in Iran


fact or fiction?

-- FreeCyprus
Hellenic Reporter

11:00 AM  
Blogger Paul said...

Thank you for sharing this with us. I felt like crying and shouting when i was reading your blog.

I am lebanese, living abroad. I feel helpless with all what has been going on.
Best of luck

10:20 AM  
Blogger NATE said...

You are s very selfish man.

Talk so much about your own skin…

No mention of the terrorist who kidnapped Lebanon, who waged war on Israel with no reason aside of sheer hatred, who hide behind innocent people, launching rockets at more the 1.000.000 Israelis with the only intention to kill them.

No mention of Iran and Syria.

Shame.

6:43 AM  
Blogger Andrea said...

Thankyou for writing this. I can sympathise with your mixed feelings about leaving Beirut. In a sense it must feel like a betrayal as if you gave up on a place and people you have obviously grown to love.

However it is probably more healthy to look at it this way - As another person leaving you are taking some of the pressure off what I am sure is a growing humanitarian crisis...

You can also be another much needed voice of reason, an educated voice with a balanced perspective who can shed some light to people who won't have much of a concept of what is going on in the middle east.

I'd love to hear more of your writing. Cheers

11:29 PM  
Blogger Andrea said...

I guess I should rather say I would love to hear more of your writing.

5:13 AM  
Blogger Dupa Jasia said...

.. .. ...

9:59 AM  
Blogger Emilia said...

I was also evacuated with the Swedish to Cyprus, and then to Stockholm. I was on the other ship the author of the blog talks about, the one with 1500 people. I am not Lebanese, but half Iranian, and live in the U.S. as well. I was born and raised in Sweden. I just wanted to thank you for recounting your experience of the evacuation. I definitely have to agree with your comment about those who found the audacity to complain. I have NEVER been prouder to be a Swedish citizen than during this evacuation. I have also never been more ashamed of being an American citizen, and therefore chose to be evacuated with the Swedish.

11:37 AM  
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1:34 AM  
Blogger 雅馨 said...

If the quantity is not a lot, I will hand carry..................................................

1:23 AM  
Blogger 彥霖 said...

感謝你的分享 要繼續發表好文章喔

1:10 AM  
Blogger 孫陽泉 said...

Poverty tries friends.....................................................................

4:57 PM  
Blogger 家賢 said...

知識可以傳授,智慧卻不行。每個人必須成為他自己。....................................................................

1:01 AM  
Blogger 珮陽 said...

It takes all kinds to make a world.............................................................

6:24 PM  
Blogger 江彭珮陽v彥璋 said...

Hello~安安唷~很高興見到你哦!!............................................................

7:06 AM  
Blogger 天花天花 said...

噴泉的高度,不會超過它的源頭。一個人的事業也是如此,它的成就絕不會超過自己的信念。.................................................................

7:07 AM  
Blogger 恩如 said...

你的分享很不錯.. 謝謝 ..................................................................

4:53 PM  
Blogger JasonBirk佳琪 said...

Pay somebody back in his own coin.............................................................

6:30 PM  
Blogger 于倫 said...

看著你的BLOG 好多朋友都回應 真厲害............................................................

12:15 AM  
Blogger 靜宸靜宸 said...

臨淵羨魚,不如退而結網。............................................................

8:01 AM  
Blogger 吳婷婷 said...

時間可證明一切~你的BLOG是我覺得不賴的............................................................

8:02 AM  
Blogger 莊雅和莊雅和莊雅和 said...

你的文章給我力量!感謝您!!!............................................................

11:17 PM  
Blogger 思恬 said...

逛街不如逛部落格,省錢又開心啊............................................................

6:13 PM  
Blogger 蔡靜芳蔡靜芳 said...

愛情是一種發明,需要不斷改良。只是,這種發明和其他發明不一樣,它沒有專利權,隨時會被人搶走。.................................................................

8:01 AM  
Blogger 陳晏李秀樺雄 said...

Learning makes a good man better and ill man worse.............................................................

3:05 AM  
Blogger 家唐銘 said...

人必須心懷希望,才會活的快樂,日子才過得充實,有意義,有朝氣,有信心。............................................................

6:59 AM  
Blogger 家唐銘 said...

April showers bring May flowers.............................................................

5:21 PM  
Blogger 易建佑青 said...

Learn wisdom by the follies of others.............................................................

5:25 PM  
Blogger 雅明修任 said...

蛛絲馬跡皆學問、落花水面皆文章............................................................

3:16 AM  
Blogger 宜明文潔 said...

好的開始並不代表會成功,壞的開始並不代表是失敗..................................................

11:23 PM  
Blogger 文王廷 said...

我對自己的信心已超越別人對我的評價................................................

7:42 AM  
Blogger 冠陳儒 said...

很棒的分享~留言支持!............................................................

8:22 PM  
Blogger 靜錢錢錢怡錢錢錢錢 said...

生命所經歷的折磨愈多,其所產生的奮鬥力愈大。................. ................................................

9:21 PM  
Blogger 承王蓁 said...

凡事三思而行,跑得太快是會滑倒的。..................................................

1:29 AM  
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Barrister Global Services Scam

11:06 PM  
Blogger Lindasy Rosenwald said...

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5:35 AM  
Blogger David said...

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2:24 AM  
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10:11 PM  

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